At the end of August, France's highest court temporarily suspended the ban on the burkini — a Muslim swimsuit. Nevertheless, some French coastal towns that sought to enforce this ban are resisting the court's ruling. The controversy over the burkini has spread beyond France, drawing global attention. At the heart of this debate is the longstanding issue of intolerance towards Muslim clothing in secular Western countries. At the request of Meduza, Ahmet Yarlykapov, PhD in History and Senior Researcher at the Institute of International Studies at MGIMO, answers questions about the hijab, abaya, and the prejudices surrounding them.
What is a abaya, and how does it differ from a hijab?
A abaya is a traditional Islamic garment. The "classic" abaya, particularly common in Central Asia, is a long robe with decorative sleeves that covers the entire body, leaving only the face uncovered. The face is typically concealed by a chachvan — a dense net made of horsehair that can be raised or lowered as needed.
The abaya is often confused with the chadri, but they are different garments. The abaya completely covers the body, including the head, with a small mesh slit left for the eyes. It’s important to note that the burkini, a Muslim swimsuit banned in France, is not related to the abaya. First, the burkini does not cover a woman’s face, and second, it is a full-body swimsuit designed to obscure the shape of the body while swimming, rather than covering it entirely.
Other common types of Muslim women's clothing include the chador — a lightweight, usually dark-colored veil that covers the entire body. The face can remain uncovered or be veiled using a niqab, which covers the hair and face, leaving only the eyes visible.
In Europe, many types of Muslim head coverings are referred to as hijabs. However, this is incorrect because the hijab refers to any type of women’s clothing that adheres to Islamic rules. By these standards, the hijab must cover the entire body and hair, leaving only the face, hands, and feet exposed. This can include a headscarf, long-sleeved top, and a floor-length skirt.
Do all Muslim women have to wear a abaya?
No, they don’t. According to Islamic teachings, devout women are required to wear a hijab — clothing that covers the body and hair — when in the presence of unrelated men. This includes the burkini at the beach, which serves as a modest swimwear version of the hijab. In some countries, such as Iran and Saudi Arabia, women are required to wear a hijab regardless of their religious beliefs. However, in secular countries, this obligation does not exist. For example, in Turkey, women were prohibited from wearing the hijab in government institutions until recently, although this ban has since been relaxed.
Is the hijab mentioned in the Quran?
Yes, the hijab is mentioned in several verses of the Quran. One key verse is Surah 24, Ayah 31, which instructs women to "lower their gaze," "not display their adornments," and "cover their chests with their veils." This verse also notes that Muslim women may only show their beauty to close relatives and a small group of trusted individuals.
Another verse, Surah 33, Ayah 59, directs women to "draw their cloaks around themselves": "O Prophet! Tell your wives, your daughters, and the women of the believers to bring down over themselves their outer garments. That is more suitable that they should be known and not abused. And Allah is Ever-Forgiving, Most Merciful."
